Sep ’10 20

This is the conclusion to the Perfect Switching article. Again, let me warn you that this page assumes you know a little bit of electrical wiring and reading basic schematic diagrams. If you don’t know what “parallel” or “series” wiring means, this page will provide you with some basics: http://www.1728.com/guitar.htm.

Last week, I showed you alternative pickup switching possibilities that can give you a wider range of tones to choose from. We’ve come a long way from the paltry 3-way switch of the Les Paul, to the Strat’s 5-way switch, then the Red Special’s 7 combination switching using 3 switches (not including phase-switching), we have 13 combination switching using 4 switches. This week, we will conclude this series with some more ideas. Whether we incorporate these additional ideas or not is subject to deliberation. On one hand, we want to squeeze as much juice as we can from our pickups. On the other hand, we do not want to end up with a guitar that looks like a 60s era rocket ship cockpit.

Double Coils

You may use either single or double coils (humbucking). Cycfi Alpha uses DiMarzio Area 67 pickups which are actually noise canceling double coils voiced after the bright and very clean Fender Strat 67. I am not quite fond of noisy single coil pickups. For double coils, coil tapping and series-parallel wiring of its coils offer additional tonal variations. Coil tapping involves switching off one of the coils giving you single coil capability. That makes the pickup very susceptible to noise, so that’s out of the question. It may be nice to have each humbucking pickup have its own series-parallel switch though. The circuit will be like what we have (see Basic Building Block in part 2 of this article) except that the SW2 is not needed and is hard-wired for the 2 pickup setting. Food for thought.

Series-parallel switching for double coil pickups

Phase switching

When two or more pickups are connected and one pickup is reverse-wired,  the signal of the reverse-wired pickup is out of phase and cancels out certain frequencies. The result is a thinner, squawky sound with a dramatic decrease in volume. You need a DPDT switch to reverse-wire a pickup. For a 3-pickup setup, you only need 2 switches, not 3. You only need to provide phase-switching for the neck and bridge pickups. The first part of this article explains why: 3 phase-switches give you redundant configurations and you can get the same results with only two switches.

Here’s the schematic:

Phase switching circuit

I have mixed feelings with phase switching. As-is, I find it barely useful only in very special cases. However, it might be interesting to limit its effect by incorporating a potentiometer that will act as a pickup blend control. When all pickups are in-phase, the blend controls will be additive (boost). When a pickup is reverse-wired, its blend control will be subtractive (cut).

Ease of use

Usability matters. No matter how impressive a feature is, bottom line, it will not gain traction if it is difficult to use. The use of multiple switches makes it a bit more complex to use. It may be argued that beauty of the Strat or the Les Paul lie in their inherent simplicity. That may be true. As Einsten said, “keep it as simple as possible, but not simpler”. With the tried and true, you can’t go wrong. It’s simple and effective. However, by going the same path over and over again, we fail to explore unseen possibilities and ultimately, it becomes boring.

Multiple switches may be tricky to use at first, especially when you are accustomed to the single multi-position switch. However, I don’t think this should be a problem with the modern guitarist with his/her full arsenal of gadgets. Hey, guitarists do a lot more complicated finger gymnastics! Guitarists I know love to experiment and explore.

Refering to the schematic (disregarding phase switching and double coil switching),  the “user interface” is really quite intuitive. We have 4 switches. 2 switches (SW2 and SW4) control compositing (mono/duo):

  • SW4 controls whether we combine pickups B and C
  • SW2 controls whether we combine A and whatever the setting of SW4 is (mono B or C or duo B and C).

Assuming SW2 and SW4 are in mono, the other 2 switches (SW1 and SW3) control pickup selection.

  • SW3: switches B or C
  • SW1: switches A or whatever we chose with SW3 (B or C). Think of it as the “lead” switch. If A is the bridge pickup, flicking SW1 will always give you the bridge pickup.

The following table gives you the settings that correspond to the Strat’s 5-way switch:

Strat SW2 SW1 SW4 SW3 Pickups
1 0 0 0 0 C
2 0 0 1 0 B | C
3 0 0 0 1 B
4 1 0 0 1 A | B
5 0 1 x x A
  • Sw3 chooses B (middle pickup) or C (neck pickup)
  • Sw4 combines both B and C
  • Flicking Sw1 switches in A (bridge pickup) regardless of the setting of Sw3 and SW4
  • SW2 combines A and whetever the setting of SW3 and SW4 is

Even Smarter Switching

The Cycfi guitar will have an on-board microcontroller (embedded microprocessor). We can incorporate an even more smarter and more user friendly switching scheme. Under the hood, we will be using low-power latching relays for each of the switches and have these relays under the microcontroller’s control. I’m pretty sure that previous statement will raise more questions. We’ll get to that soon. Cya!

Next: Bamboo Preparation (part 1) next
Sep ’10 15

This is an installment to last week’s Perfect Switching article. Again, let me warn you that this page assumes you know a little bit of electrical wiring and reading basic schematic diagrams. If you don’t know what “parallel” or “series” wiring means, this page will provide you with some basics: http://www.1728.com/guitar.htm.

Our goal is to devise a way to optimally utilize the 3 pickup configuration in order to have the widest sonic range possible. The basic Fender Strat switching gives you 5 possibilities. Brian May’s Red Special offers 7 possibilities (not including phase switching). The Strat pickups are wired in parallel, while the Red Special pickups are connected in series.

Best of Both Worlds

It is possible to have more pickup configurations by allowing both series and parallel wiring. We are already accustomed to parallel wiring since most electric guitars are wired that way. Series wiring, on the other hand, gives you a more powerful (“hotter”) signal that easily overdrives the amp. This is good for lead playing. The tonal quality of series wired pickups compared to parallel is radically different due to various factors, most essentially, shifts in the combined pickups’ resonant frequencies when the total pickup inductance is shifted up (series) or down (parallel). To give you an idea how different the total inductances are, given 3 identical pickups each with 10mh inductance:

  • The total inductance when wired in series is 30mh: (10mh + 10mh + 10mh).
  • The combined inductance when wired in parallel is 3mh:  1 / ((1 / 10mh) + (1 / 10mh) + (1 / 10mh))

With series wiring, the resonant frequency is shifted down while the power is increased.

Basic Building Block

The schematics presented in these pages are 100% original and has been prototyped and fully tested. You are free to copy the ideas presented here subject to the MIT license.

Let’s start with a 2 pickup configuration. This will be our basic building block that can be extended to 3, 4 or even more pickups. With 2 pickups, you have these possible permutations:

  1. B
  2. A
  3. A | B
  4. A + B

(See my previous article to understand the notation I am using)

To get these combinations, you need two DPDT switches. Here’s the basic schematic:

 

There’s really no on or off settings here. All switch settings will produce an output. Instead of on-or-off, let’s think in boolean: 0 or 1. 0 (zero) means that the switch is in its “left” position and 1 (one) means that the switch is in its “right” position.

Here’s the switching table:

Sw2 Sw1 Combination
0 0 B
0 1 A
1 0 A | B
1 1 A + B

There are different ways to achieve the same set of combinations. A previous version of this article employed a simpler wiring scheme. What’s unique about this updated schematic is that you have one switch (SW2) to control the choice of using one pickup (A or B) or two pickups (A and B). SW1 chooses between A or B when SW2 is in the one-pickup setting. The same switch (SW1) doubles as the series-parallel switch when SW2 is in the two-pickup setting.

The following illustrations show the signal flow for each of the 4 switch settings.

  1. Pickup B only

  2. Pickup A only

  3. A and B in parallel

  4. A and B in series

3 Pickup Configuration

With 3 pickups, you can simply use the same schematic as above and insert that into either the left box (A) or right box (B). It’s easier seen than said. Here’s the schematic:

With this setup, we have 13 possible combinations. The 3 pickups can be combined in series, parallel, series-parallel or parallel-series. Here’s the list of usable permutations:

  1. C
  2. B
  3. B | C
  4. B + C
  5. A
  6. A | C
  7. A | B
  8. A | B | C
  9. A | (B + C)
  10. A + C
  11. A + B
  12. A + (B | C)
  13. A + B + C

Here’s the switching table. Note that we’ve introduced a new “don’t care” symbol: ‘x’. Where there’s an ‘x’, the switch’s position does not matter.

Sw2 Sw1 Sw4 Sw3 Combination
0 0 0 0 C
0 0 0 1 B
0 0 1 0 B | C
0 0 1 1 B + C
0 1 x x A
1 0 0 0 A | C
1 0 0 1 A | B
1 0 1 0 A | B | C
1 0 1 1 A | (B + C)
1 1 0 0 A + C
1 1 0 1 A + B
1 1 1 0 A + (B | C)
1 1 1 1 A + B + C

Ok, well, there you go. We now have a whole set of pickup combinations to choose from. With 4 switches, we are able to choose from all possible series/parallel pickup combinations. And we haven’t even added phase-switching yet, which, as mentioned in the first part of this article series, gives you a thin, squawky sound that is only occasionally useful.

Stay tuned for the third part that will conclude this series…

Next: Perfect Switching (part 3) next
Sep ’10 09

I am tired of the same old Fender Strat or Gibson wiring. Go to a music store and chances are, with a very few exceptions, you’ll see electric guitars wired either the Fender Strat way (5-way switch) or the Gibson Les Paul way (3-way switch). I want to be adventurous and explore new wiring configurations. I’ll be exploring alternative switching configurations for the Cycfi guitar.

Before I begin, let me warn you that this page assumes you know a little bit of electrical wiring and reading basic schematic diagrams. If you don’t know what “parallel” or “series” wiring means, this page will provide you with some basics: http://www.1728.com/guitar.htm.

I will be using this simple notation for brevity:

  • Neck pickup: A
  • Middle pickup: B
  • Bridge pickup: C
  • x | y: Parallel wiring
  • x + y: Series wiring
  • ‘x: x inverted phase

Examples:

A | C reads as: Neck and Bridge pickups wired in parallel
A + ‘B reads as: Neck and middle pickups wired in series with middle pickup connected in reverse (inverted phase).

Standard Switching

Your standard 5-way Fender Stratocaster switch connects one or two of your 3 pickups to the output with these configurations below:

  1. A
  2. A | B
  3. B
  4. B | C
  5. C

With only two pickups (neck and bridge), you have only three options with the standard Gibson Les Paul switching:

  1. A
  2. A | C
  3. C

Red Special

Strat and Les Paul pickups are wired in parallel. That is typical. Most electric guitars out there, with a few exceptions, are wired in parallel. One peculiar exception, and one that I am very fond of, is Brian May’s (of Queen) Red Special that he and his father built. Brian May is my inspiration. He is the very reason why I started building guitars in the first place. I love the thought of having my own unique signature sound that no one else will ever have. Contrary to norm, the Red Special pickups are wired in series. Also, instead of having a single switch, the Red Special has six! Three switches for pickup selection and three more for phase switching (out of phase switching gives you a thinner, squawky  sound since some frequencies cancel out each other). Like the Strat, the Red Special has three pickups. With the three pickup switches, you have all possible permutations:

  1. A
  2. A + B
  3. B
  4. B + C
  5. C
  6. A + C
  7. A + B + C

Strat folks, you are missing the last two pickup configurations! (Aside: A friend of mine has a unique Strat model equipped with three pickup switches like Brian’s, but that model is very rare).

Now, if you add the Brian’s phase-switching into the picture, you have a lot more options. I list all the options below, removing redundancies (for example, A (neck pickup alone), is sonically equivalent to its inverse ‘A (neck pickup reverse wired)). I also removed the all-off combination. Here’s the list:

  1. A
  2. B
  3. C
  4. A + B
  5. ‘A + B
  6. A + C
  7. ‘A + C
  8. B + C
  9. ‘B + C
  10. A + B + C
  11. ‘A + B + C
  12. A + ‘B + C
  13. A + B + ‘C

Brain May’s Red Special indeed gives you a fuller repertoire of sounds. There are a lot of redundancies though. If you consider the number of switches (there are 6), then the possible permutations would be 26 or 64. Yet, in the list above, you see that there are only 13 unique timbres. The rest are duplicates.

Why?

1) A reverse phased pickup only affects the sound in combination with at least one more pickup connected normally (in-phase). The out of phase pickup will cancel some frequencies of the other pickup(s). You will not notice any difference in timbre when you invert the phase of a single pickup. Example:

‘A = A

2) Two pickups inverse-phased will likewise sound the same as its normal counterparts. Example:

‘A + ‘B = A + B

3) Two pickups inverse-phased plus another normally wired pickup will sound the same as the first two pickups normally wired plus the third inverse-phased. Example:

‘A + ‘B + C = A + B + ‘C

In short, the phase switching is only effective one switch at a time and only when two or three pickups are active.

Thirteen possible timbral options is a lot and offers a vastly superior sound repertoire. However, settings that involve phase reversal give you a thin, squawky sound that is only useful occasionally.

Can we do better? You bet!

Next: Perfect Switching (part 2) next
Aug ’10 28

Here are a couple of 3D renderings of the CAD model. Solid modeling is fun as soon as you get the hang of it. It becomes so gratifying when you see the rendering taking shape. Ah yeah… the artist in me. The model is dimension-accurate (down to the screws). I do have a couple of unfinished actual prototypes as well as some actual parts (tuners, pickups, etc.) that I reverse-modeled.

(Click to zoom)

Full view of the guitar

Full view of the guitar

Full view (head POV)

Full view (head POV)

The Body

The top is 4 layer carbon fiber (See Black Steel) with polished stainless steel binding (typically, luthiers use plastic). I am all for non-traditional designs, but this time, I’d like to start with a more conventional Strat-ish body design. I’d love to have more electronics installed (more on this later), but the basics must be set in place. For this design, that means 3 DiMarzio Area 69 pickups, standard 5 position lever switch, passive volume and tone controls, Schaller roller bridge and Grover locking tuners. Electronics fail and easily become obsolete. I want this creation to be alive and kicking, and still retain its value, 50 years or more into the future for the generations to come.

(Click to zoom)

Body Top

Body Top

Body Top (Alternate POV)

Body Top (Alternate POV)

Body Top (Guitarist POV)

Body Top (Guitarist POV)

Back View Showing Top Curve

Back View Showing Top Curve

The top has a slight curvature (717 mm radius) as shown in the 4th image above. The bottom is aggressively contoured for ergonomics and for easy access to the higher frets. The image below shows the guitar’s back. The neck-thru construction eliminates the neck-body joint so we can be as radical as we can in sculpting the back.

Contoured Bottom with Smooth Neck to Body Transition

Contoured Bottom with Smooth Neck to Body Transition

Neck-thru construction

The neck runs through the full length of the strings up to the bridge and string ferrules. The string goes through the body (2nd picture below). It is constructed using bamboo-epoxy laminate (See The Mystical Plant) wrapped in 3 to 4 layers of carbon fiber. The truss-rod is also constructed from carbon fiber (unlike traditional guitars using steel rods). Like the body, the neck-thru sports polished stainless steel bindings around the fretboard and head.

This middle neck-thru piece is the most crucial part of the guitar. Like the classic Steinberger, the premise is that this middle section should sound good by itself. Unlike the Steinberger however, we will still have a head and a body. Like the Les Paul, the carbon fiber body top will enhance and project the guitar’s sound.

(Click to zoom)

Neck-Thru Middle Section

Neck-Thru Middle Section

String through Body

String through Body

The Head and Fretboard

The logo and truss-rod cover are stainless steel inlaid into the 6-layer carbon fiber top. The fretboard has the same sandwiched carbon fiber-bamboo-carbon fiber construction. The fret position markers are back-lit with white LEDs with brightness adjustment.

(Click to zoom)

14 degree Head Angle

14 degree Head Angle

Head Front View

Head Front View

Head with more of fretboard with backlit markers

Head with more of fretboard with backlit markers

Head Back View

Head Back View

Head (Alternate view)

Head (Alternate view)

Head Close-up

Head Close-up

Next: Perfect Switching (part 1) next
Aug ’10 28

Neck

  • Thru-Neck construction (No body and neck joints)
  • Material:
    • Bamboo-epoxy laminate thru-neck core
    • 3 Layer carbon fiber skin neck bottom
    • 4 Layer carbon fiber head top
    • Carbon fiber fretboard wrap (3 layer top, 3 layer bottom)
    • Bamboo-epoxy laminate fretboard core
    • Stainless steel binding
  • Carbon fiber / glass truss-rod
  • Full-scale length: 644 mm
  • 24 frets
  • Head thickness: 18 mm
  • Head angle: 14 degrees
  • Neck thickness
    • 0th fret: 18 mm
    • 12th fret: 21.375 mm
    • 24th fret: 22.5 mm
  • Nut width: 43 mm
  • 24th fret width: 57 mm

Body

  • Material:
    • Top: 4 layer carbon fiber
    • Bottom: aluminum / fiber glass
    • Stainless steel binding
  • Body thickness: 40 mm
  • Body top radius: 717 mm
  • Saddle to saddle spacing: 10.16 mm

Hardware

Total weight: No more than 2 kilos (4.5 lbs.)

Notes

  1. I like non-traditional designs. I usually prefer my own body styles, but this time, I’ll start with a more traditional Strat-influenced body design. The body will be more aggressively contoured though (more on that later).
  2. The “scale length” is the total length the string travels from the edge of the nut up to the center of the 12th fret multiplied by 2. The scale length (among other things) affects the overall sound of the guitar. That is one reason why you can’t just install single coil pickups in a short-scale guitar and expect it to sound like a Strat. The scale length (644 mm, 25.35″) falls somewhere in between a Strat (647.7 mm, 25.5″) and a Les Paul (628.65 mm, 24.75″).
Next: Design next
Aug ’10 26

Flashback

Yeah, that’s me, more than 20 years ago. That’s the first guitar that I built when I was in high school almost 30 years ago. The body is reminiscent of the Gibson Explorer blended with the Ibanez Iceman. I love the balance and feel of this guitar. The neck has a unique  23.5 inch scale (shorter than a Gibson Les Paul) with 24 frets, making it very easy to play lead. The tremolo was handcrafted, milled from solid brass and gold plated. It can bend up 6 semitones and down until the strings are loose; it’s a locking trem with perfect center return. Back then, I’ve seen locking floyd rose trems only in magazines. I had to build a locking trem myself.

The guitar is equipped with a Seymour Duncan PU at the bridge and a Dimarzio at the neck (can’t recall which models). Don’t go telling me I can’t combine these pickups! I think outside the box, remember? I’m never constrained with preconceived notions of what should and what should not be done.

Alas, this guitar was stolen. Now, what’s left are a just couple of pictures and memories. What’s important though is the experience I had building the guitar. Since then, there’s this lingering urge to build instruments that reflect my soul. This guitar is like no other and has its totally unique sound – its signature.

Now, everyone wants a Stratocaster. Bah!

Aug ’10 26

As always, it all starts with a good design. I can be a hacker. Sometimes I am. But for projects I love most, the perfectionist in me insists on starting with a good design. I actually did some drafting work initially using plain ol’ rulers, triangles, pencil, pen and paper. I still have some blue prints somewhere. Yet, there’s always this itch to design using modern tools: 3D Solid Modeling! It makes perfect sense!

Exploded View

While my guitar gently weeps

Technically, this is not a solid-body guitar. The cavity essentially makes this an acoustic-electric guitar. The objective is to control and actually take advantage of the inherent body resonance. This guitar will be designed with feedback in mind, especially for low sound level/volume, studio use. I love singing and weeping guitars that sustain indefinitely with controlled feedback. This usually means cranking the volume up to 11: the hallmark of Hendrix et al. I love this effect, but I love my ears too and so I wish to achieve this effect at much lower volume levels.

The central thru-neck piece is a single piece, solid, select  bamboo – epoxy laminate, wrapped in carbon fiber for added rigidity. The truss rod is adjustable and likewise made from carbon fiber. The body and head tops are made from 4 layer carbon fiber/epoxy laminate with 0.5 mm stainless steel binding.

More on the design later…

Next: 3D Solid Modeling next
Jul ’10 29

I’ve been working on this project on and off. Now, a few months have passed. The last blog entry was written in November. It’s not that nothing has happened since then. It’s just that a lot of other things have (as usual) taken more of my time.

So, it hit me. While searching my desk, I found this: 13 Tips for More Effective Time Management. Entry 10 hit me hard:

AVOID BEING A PERFECTIONIST. In the Malaysian culture, only the gods are considered capable of producing anything perfect. Whenever something is made, a flaw is left on purpose so the gods will not be offended. Yes, some things need to be closer to perfect than others, but perfectionism, paying unnecessary attention to detail, can be a form of procrastination.

OK, so instead of “perfect” blog entries, I’ll simply churn out stuff as it goes.

Nov ’09 08

carbon-fiberLightweight but stronger than steel, carbon fiber reinforced plastics (CFRP) or carbon fiber in short, was once considered a very expensive space age material used in the space shuttle and state-of-the-art airplanes as a substitute for aluminum alloys. Carbon fiber is a polymer made of long and thin graphite, a pure form of carbon (more than 90% carbon) where the atoms are arranged into big sheets of hexagonal aromatic rings that look like chicken wire. This atomic configuration makes it extremely strong and at the same time light. Carbon Fiber belongs to a group of materials with properties similar to diamond. The difference is that diamond has a uniform 3D cubic crystal structure whereas carbon fiber has a uniform 2D mesh structure. The fibers are used to reinforce materials like epoxy resins. The same process used in fabricating fiber glass composites applies to carbon fiber.

Luis and Clark Carbon Fiber Cello

Luis and Clark Carbon Fiber Cello

Recently, improved manufacturing techniques are reducing the cost of carbon fiber. Carbon fiber is now becoming a mainstream material finding its way into applications that require durability, high-strength, low weight and insensitivity to humidity and temperature changes. Its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio is the main reason why it is a material of choice in the aerospace industry and much later, for F1 race cars and high end sports cars. Now, it is increasingly common in consumer goods such as tennis racquets, golf clubs, archery equipment, tripods, fishing rods, laptops, bicycle frames and parts, aftermarket automotive body-panels and parts, and… you guessed it, musical instruments.

Stockbridge Summer Music’s 18th season, July 7, 2003, was an unusual event. Cellist Luis Leguia gave the opening recital featuring standard works from Bach, Vivaldi, Faure, and Kodaly, with a cello made not from wood, but carbon fiber. The cello is his creation.  In 1989, he began experimenting on a prototype carbon fiber cello in his basement. The result is an instrument with exceptional sonic quality, projection and volume; good enough for the discerning professional musician. A decade later, Luis Leguia started his company named Luis and Clark and began building carbon fiber violins, violas, cellos and double basses. Now, a carbon fiber cello costs $7,139.

Carbon fiber is stronger than even the hardest wood. There is no comparison. It has a tensile strength of 565 kN/cm² which is more than 10 times than that of steel with a tensile strength of 37 kN/cm. Yet, it is 4 times lighter.

But then again, a strong material does not necessarily make a good instrument. Early carbon fiber composite based instruments sounded dull and lacking in character, noted Charles Besnainou, an instrument builder at the Paris Conservatoire and France’s National Center for Scientific Research. Since 1986, Charles has been studying and building composite instruments. Over time, he has learned the fine art of tweaking the balance between the material’s rigidity and flexibility (its viscoelasticity) to make the response more like “tonewood”.

Does that sound familiar? Is this again another case of “tuning” the material?

From the descriptions above, it is immediately apparent that carbon fiber is a suitable candidate for building guitars which require high strength to counteract the tendency of the strings to pull the head towards the body with a total tension in excess of 45 kilos (99 lbs) while being extremely low weight and thus less fatiguing to carry around.

A process, called a wet layup, involves laminating multiple sheets of carbon fiber fabric soaked with two part epoxy resin and laid up over a fiber glass mold. Before layup, the mold is first prepped by polishing it with carnuba wax and applying a thin layer of release agent, typically PVA, to ease separation when the resin cures. After layup, the laminate and mold are placed inside a plastic vacuum bag. Air is drawn out using a vacuum pump to eliminate bubbles from forming and to remove excess resin. The piece is then set aside to allow it to cure. This is the same process used in fabricating fiber glass composites.


Here’s a small gallery of musical instruments made of carbon fiber:

“The Handle” by XOX Audio Tools

“The Handle” by XOX Audio Tools

Blackbird Super OM

Blackbird Super OM

Carbon Fiber Mandolin by NewMAD

Carbon Fiber Mandolin by NewMAD

G1 Seven by Gus Guitars

G1 Seven by Gus Guitars

Luis And Clark Violin, Viola, Cello and Double Bass

Luis And Clark Violin, Viola, Cello and Double Bass

WS1000 6-string acoustic by Rainsong

WS1000 6-string acoustic by Rainsong

Flute by Maltit

Flute by Maltit

Adamas 2080

Adamas 2080

Further Reading

  1. Japan Carbon Fiber Manufacturers Association
  2. Carbon fiber
  3. Bacon’s breakthrough
  4. Carbon-Fiber Cellos No Longer Playing Second-Fiddle to Wooden Instruments
  5. A Summer Cello Expedition with Luis and Clark
  6. Carbonfibre
  7. 6 Sexy Carbon Fiber Guitars
  8. Acoustic characteristics of carbon fiber-reinforced synthetic wood for musical instrument soundboards
  9. Beyond Rosewood and Spruce – How guitar makers are using space-age composite materials to create new designs and new sounds
Next: Specifications next
Oct ’09 25

The Land Breeze and the Sea Breeze were married and had a child: a giant bamboo plant. The first man, Malakas (Strong), and the first woman, Maganda (Beautiful), emerged from the bamboo plant split in two after a battle between the Sky and the Ocean.

bamboo1

This is the legend of the first man and woman according to Philippine oral tradition. Several creation related legends exist throughout Asia. In Malaysia, a similar legend tells of a man discovering the beautiful woman of his dreams emerge from a bamboo tree he split open. In Hawaiian mythology, bamboo is the body form of Kane Milohai, the god who created the sky, earth and upper heaven.

The bamboo is firmly entrenched in many cultures throughout Asia for thousands of years. Some still believe the bamboo has mystical powers. In feng shui (an ancient Chinese art and science), it is known to promote positive energy flow (chi) and is sometimes used as medicine. In Japan, bamboo forests sometimes surround Shinto shrines as a barrier against evil spirits.

Bamboo is revered and is extensively depicted in art, poetry and literature especially in Southeast Asia. This plant has numerous meanings. Its durability and evergreen nature represent eternity, tradition, longevity, loyalty and fidelity. It is also the symbol of luck and wealth in China. In India, it is a symbol of friendship. In Vietnam, the bamboo symbolizes the Vietnamese soul.  In China, the bamboo, the plum blossom, the orchid and the chrysanthemum represent the four seasons and are known as the four noble plants. The bamboo is symbol of summer in China, and winter, In Korea. The Japanese call the bamboo, the pine tree, and the plum blossom, the “Three Friends in Winter”. Bamboo represents flexibility, the plum blossom represents beauty and the pine tree symbolizes survival through difficulty.

The Humble Grass

Yes, bamboo is a grass, members of the Gramineae (Poaceae) and grouped in different subfamilies, the Bambusoideae with some 1,400 species. The diversity makes it adaptable to diverse environments. It is native to all continents except the coldest regions such as Europe and the poles where they were wiped out during the recent ice age. Bamboo evolved from prehistoric grasses in what is now Asia in the Cretaceous period where it reached heights of 75 meters (250 feet) in vast, enormous forests.

Bamboo Forest

Bamboo Forest

As a material of choice, it is sustainable and “rapidly renewable”. Bamboo is the fastest growing woody plant in the world with a growth rate of up to 90 centimeters (3 feet/day). Some species can grow as tall as 30 meters (100 feet) and more than 25 centimeters in diameter (10 inches). It grows to a harvestable height of 18 meters (60 feet) in about three to five years. After harvest, its extensive root system continually replenishes the plant with new shoots without the need for replanting; making it one of the most renewable resources available.

It is environmentally friendly. The plant absorbs more greenhouse gases (12 tons/hectare) and provides five times more oxygen than the equivalent surface area of trees. Bamboo cultivation does not require pesticides (it has natural anti-bacterial properties), fertilizers, heavy harvesting machinery or irrigation.

Bamboo is green in every sense of the word. It is traditional and even ancient yet so 21st century!

When treated, bamboo forms a lightweight and exceptionally durable hard wood. High content of silicic acid gives the plant its extraordinary elasticity, hardness and strength. The tensile strength of bamboo (up to 40kN/cm²) is greater than that of steel (37 kN/cm²). It is known to be almost three times harder than oak and 16% harder than maple.

Bamboo is used as material for musical instruments predominantly in Asia since antiquity. Its tonal properties make it particularly suitable for musical instruments. Its hollow structure makes it a natural choice for building wind and percussion instruments. The fibers and natural resin that constitute bamboo material itself is very resonant due to its resilience and high elasticity. A narrow strip of bamboo flexed like a bow will freely oscillate when released and emit a pleasing “thooouummmnnn”  sound at its resonant frequency plus some overtones.

Let us see what the world of bamboo musical instruments has to offer. Here’s a sampler:

Traditional Instruments

Angklung

Angklung

Angklung (Indonesia): Made out of two bamboo tubes tuned to octaves.

Shakuhachi (Japan): An end blown flute.

Shinobue (Japan): A high-pitched transverse flute.

Xiao (China): A vertical end blown flute.

Jinghu

Jinghu

Palendag (Philippines): A long slender lip-valley flute.

Dizi (China): A flute with an extra hole covered with a tissue-like membrane that gives the instrument a very unique timbre.

f’ohe hano ihu, meaning “bamboo, breath, nose” (Hawaii): A nose flute with 4 holes, one for the breath and the rest for the notes.

Shakuhachi

Shakuhachi

Nohkan (Japan): A high pitched, transverse flute made from smoked bamboo (susudake) or burned bamboo (yakidake).

Jegog (Indonesia): A large percussive instrument (3.3 meters in length and 18cm in diameter) with pitch as low as 60 hz.

Valiha (Madagascar): A bamboo tube zither. The Valiha is Madagascar’s national instrument.

Valiha

Valiha

Rangguin (Malaysia): A Jaw harp consisting of a flexible bamboo strip attached to a frame. The bamboo strip is plucked using the mouth as a resonator.

Kuliteng (Philippines): A zither made from single bamboo section, three to four inches in diameter, with strings also made from bamboo.

Balingbing “Buzzer” (Philippines): A bamboo tube with slits on two sides allowing the halves to buzz when struck with the hand.

Bamboo Organ

Bamboo Organ

Jinghu (China): A bowed instrument with two strings tuned in fifths.

Las Piñas Bamboo Organ (Philipines): Probably the largest bamboo instrument ever built, it was built in 1816 by Fray Diego Cera dela Virgen del Carmen. Made almost entirely of bamboo with 843 bamboo tubes out of a total of 900, only the trumpet stops are made from metal.

Modern Instruments

FGBM1BambooYamaha FGB1: The world’s first all-bamboo acoustic guitar. Everything in this guitar is made from bamboo, the top, back, sides, neck and even the braces. The bamboo’s straight grain gives it a warm, crisp and resonant sound.

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The Stick

Bamboo Saxophone: Philipus Jani of Sabah, Malaysia builds saxophones made entirely from bamboo. It took him 12 years to design and patent his creation.

The Stick: A revolutionary guitar-like instrument designed for  two-handed tapping. “Laminated bamboo is an ideal natural material for making Sticks. It’s lighter in weight and more rigid than hardwoods, and also has a very tough surface. Three tiers of 3/16″ wide ‘vertically’ laminated strips form an attractive ‘breadboard’ construction with maximum strength in the direction of string tension.”

Further Reading

  1. Bamboo Boom: Is This Material for You?
  2. Earth Healing with Bamboo
  3. What Is the Meaning of the Lucky Bamboo?
  4. Three Friends in Winter
  5. Mechanical properties of bamboo
  6. World Instruments Gallery
  7. Bamboo Orchestra
  8. Yamaha Announces World’s First All-Bamboo Guitar
  9. Strong as steel and environmentally sound, bamboo is branching out – The Boston Globe
  10. Would a bamboo neck be feasible?
  11. The Stick
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